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F3- THE FAR AWAY ROYAL PALACES AND TEMPLES-3

 BY   PRAGYANSHARMA POLAVARAPU


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DIARY TEXT  2-3-2004

Because we had to follow a government approved tour program , we could not take rest even for a day at Bengaluru even though we visited our daughter  after an year . We all decided that  on our return from Mysore and Ooty we would stop for a day or two at Bangalore.

So,on with our  exciting trip.It was really very painful  but we had to hurry within a few hours as per our fixed tour program  . We had to  start for Mysore by  11am bus. My younger daughter, ( a college student pursuing computer science) , was the happiest of us. She was  very happy that her sister was  coming with us to Mysore and Ooty. Our son-in-law had to be at his office  by 10am to attend a important staff meeting . He started for his office and wished  us a happy journey. My elder daughter  was very happy to travel with us and be with us for three days.

 We started  by auto to the big and bustling Bengaluru bus stand and boarded an express bus for Mysuru. I  made clear to all that we  had absolutely no plan to stay at Ooty overnight  because of extreme cold there . We would  complete our trip  in  8 to 10 hours( including the time for up and down journeys). We have to satisfy ourselves with seeing the picturesque villages on the hill sides, negotiating the  zig-zag bends and steep road sections and  watch the extremely beautiful hill scenery and the endless greenery and see the change in weather in the top mountainous regions . We would just stop for two hours in Ooty town .We had to adjust our program as per our very limited time.

We would stay in a nice comfortable hotel in Mysore .  We would start at 7am at Mysuru  and return back by 6pm strictly  before nightfall.  I especially wanted  to show the picturesque scenery of Ooty to my  wife and daughters .I very much wanted that they should see the vast greenery and forest cover and the many  villages appearing on the slanting hill sides.

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So we are now on first leg of our journey—reaching our base camp the beautiful city of Mysuru which is 140 kilometers south of Bengaluru. The bus  took us at  good  speed and we reached Mysuru  by 4pm. It was the  capital of erstwhile Mysuru kingdom (present state of Karnataka) and is a cool beautiful clean  city of about one million people . It is at a high altitude with pleasant crispy air and is famous for its majestic  palaces and wide roads decorated with imposing life size marble statues of the Maharajas. The kings of the last dynasty ( the  Wadiyars  were   very forward looking and converted Mysore into a modern city just like a European city with modern infrastructure and modern educational and technical institutions . The kings of Wadiyar dynasty ruled for about 500 years (up to merger into Republic of India) except for a reign of short period of 48 years in second half of 18th century by the Nawabs Hyder Ali and Tippu Sultan.

 Mysuru was the celebrated capital of the state  for 500 years   until Bengaluru became capital  from the period of Indian independence .  My wife and  second daughter did not visit these areas until now but my elder daughter  had been  staying in Bengaluru for about  two years .Every village and town on the way were full of coconut trees and some had big coconut plantations. It was everywhere   a world of countless coconut trees . The greenery everywhere was pleasing to the eye.

At the busy  Mysore bus stand where we reached (at about 4pm) several cabmen and  travel agents came to us to ask about our travel program . I went to a nearby office of a a senior agent of Karnataka government  travel beaureu.   He  had a big and neat office with phones and office assistants and talked fluently  in  English showing me several tourist maps .I fixed with his help a hotel for Rs 600/- per day with room service, phone,TV .

I discussed with the agent  a  trip to Ooty next morning starting at least by  7am or 7-30 AM. It was a long journey requiring four and half hours for one way journey. We have to be back in our hotel by at least 6 pm.  I  told him that we had no plan of staying at Ooty.  He agreed to our program and we  fixed our travel in the  25 seater “Swaraj Mazda” minibus of the agent. I paid the fares in advance.

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The time was only around 4-15 pm in the afternoon. We had a plan to  see the main Grand Palace of the Maharaja. The travel agent arranged for dropping us at our hotel in one of his taxi cars.The hotel room was a big neat room with four beds and lift facility. We  immediately refreshed and ordered  nice wada/upma and coffee into our room. In minutes we got down and started for the Grand Palace of the Maharaja  which was just 2 kilometers away . We reached there by auto in ten  minutes.  We had also on our mind a visit to the most holy  Chamundeswari temple on the Chamundeswari hill at 6pm that day itself . I told our people that we should finish our visit to the palace  well before 6pm . The temple on the high hills  was a most majestic temple of mother goddess Parvathi.  I visited the temple three or four times during my earlier trips  to Mysore for departmental training.

At the palace cameras were not allowed and so we deposited our camera in the  prescribed  section of the palace office . We were also to go barefoot . The palace complex was dazzling and majestic and of gigantic proportions.No other words to describe it. The gardens in front were vast with very  big lawns and flower beds . But we had no time to wonder at the beauty of the vast gardens. We  straight away entered the palace halls and  first visited the  outer halls. There were  high  cuboidal  glass cases containing  royal belongings like guns, royal coats etc  and were under alert gaze of armed guards . We saw king’s thrones, costly furniture items all in high security rooms sealed in huge cubical cases of thick glass. We could only see the royal items through  through the transparent glass .

 The inner walls of the imposing halls  were decorated with huge paintings of dimensions like 10 feet x 10 feet.     The imposing paintings showed  images of previous kings  in old world British empire days . There were huge wall size paintings showing European soldiers on horse back  with long guns and Indian soldiers in turbans and long coats carrying long dazzling swords and spears.

In one hall the pillars, made of solid iron and of round  cross section were lean towards the top but  were very strong and artistically made. They were painted in  bright vertical  color bands of light   green, blue and gold . The solid iron  pillars were  decorated with many colorful designs of flowers and creepers.

 The ceilings were fitted with  costly thick wood panels in which wonderful flower and creeper designs  were cut . The artistic wood panels on ceiling were absolutely wonderful and the bright polished varnished designs shone in the  electric lights . There were sculptures of gods and goddesses in wood panels.The  halls with the coloful lean iron pillars , artistically carved  wooden ceilings and the heavy  furniture  items created a wonderful feeling in people who never saw such palaces.

Soon we entered the inner halls which were many times more  dazzling. Here the colorfully painted pillars were very fat   and had a circular cross section of about two or three feet. The pillars were fat in the middle and  lean towards top. They were painted with   color  designs in wide  lengthwise colored bands in  thick blue, green, pink ,gold colors etc .  The majestic high doors  were made of costly heavy wood and were full of   carvings of beautiful artistic designs . Here too the  ceilings were fitted with heavy carved wood panels with intricate designs.

In cubical  glass cases of the size of small rooms there were rare items of the Maharaja’s furniture---old costly chairs covered in  silver sheets with artistic designs , ivory inlaid  costly wooden tables with fat curved legs, costly bedsteads with foam beds, artistically made tea tables etc. We saw one  throne studded with gems and another  throne covered in gold sheet  with multi colored metal peacock design. All were under the gaze of heavily armed guards.

There were  royal weapons of war—swords, helmets, heavy boots, big long  guns, heavy spears etc. There were costly silver dishes and silver plates and several gold  tea cups etc used by the kings and their families  . There were several other presentation items given to the king by other kings and nawabs and European monarchs. All the items were secured in glass cabinets .It was all like a fairy land.

 We hurried and entered the dazzling  Durbar Hall with   fat pillars painted in wide coloured vertical  bands. There were exquisitely beautiful flower designs. The ceiling too had very attractive designs cut in  huge sized  wooden panels.  huge chandeliers hung down. It was  a wonder world.

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We then walked to the wide and long balcony area where the king and queen would sit  on  golden thrones on festive occasions and would exchange greetings with the  hundreds of people waiting down below on the lawns of the palace.The royal people ( princes and royal relations and nobles),ministers and army generals would be seated in the heavy chairs arranged in rows on the long staircase-like gallery in the balcony. Royal women  in purdah  from privileged royal families viewed from the small decorated royal cabins.

 There were huge statues of two ferocious lions  at each end of the gateway of the vast ground below where people would gather to see the royal people sitting in  the high balcony. The Durbar Hall had a  coloured  cut glass ceiling with many  attractive designs. It was all like a fairy land and so unbelievable .

We came down and entered the equally wonderful museum of royal belongings in  other highly protected inner halls of the palace. The area appeared to lack good lighting. The exhibits kept in those halls also were very  interesting. They were actual belongings of  members of the old royal families who were kings, queens, princes etc , perhaps 100 or 200 years back. There were gold plates, silvrer  cups ,silver tea pots ,ornamental glassware and  costly porcelain ware .

 The old  furniture items like  chairs, tables etc used by the royals and their children were   carefully   and neatly  arranged. The dresses , ornamental royal turbans with precious stones , the boots and costly footware  used  by the royals( when they were alive and young a 100 or 150 years ago) were carefully secured.

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 The Pooja Mantap where god’s holy metal idols  are kept, Pooja Peethams (decorated with silver and gold flowers and precious stones and  inlaid ivory designs) were all secured  carefully in glass cases.

 There were framed photographs of Rajas and Ranis in old fashioned traditional Hindu dresses . There were photographs  of royals and their royal  relations in western suites. There were the watches and wall clocks ,swords, guns, gramophones, radios, spectacles, costly pens etc used by the royals . All were most carefully secured in glass cases in high security halls closely guarded by armed gaurds.

We came out of the palace at about 5-30 pm . We got back our electronic camera from the locker room and took lots of photographs  in the gardens of the palace. But the sentries would not permit us  to stop for long time anywhere near to the  palace . We visited also two   magnificient  temples within the palace compound. Seeing and praying in the temples to the beautiful gods gave us immense pleasure and peace of mind .

 

 

 

 

 

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